Cantonments, scattered all over India, are reminders of the British Raj and I have fond memories of them.
Nagpur's Sudder Bazar area was spacious with well laid- out roads. The main city areas of Mahal and Itwari on the other hand, were very congested.
Pune has not one but three cantonments - Pune, Kirkee and Dehu road - attached to it. A lot of history is attached to the east (Pune cantonment) and west (Pune city and Deccan Gymkhana) divide in Pune. Without knowing it, we landed in the eastern part of Pune fifty years ago and we have absorbed the camp - that is how Pune cantonment is known - culture.
The ethos of camp is best captured in Farrokh Dhondi's 'Poona Company'. Gambling, betting, taking pot shots at the nationalistically minded denizens of the city, making money in trading and small business, sticking to the knitting of one's close community - Parsees, Irani's, Jews, Anglo-Indians and Goanese Christians, Muslims including Moghuls, Sindhis, Gujrati's and Jains - were the features of this ethos. St. Vincent's School and its Jesuit priests, Gulati hall with its few cultural programmes and later Nehru Memorial Hall defined the (little) intellectual core of this culture. Sports were more important than studies.
Parsees, Christians and Muslims looked down upon Jains and Marwari's as spineless, sissy people and Marathi people were all 'Ghatis'. This narrow culture flowered against the backdrop of posh areas like Main Street, East Street, Cahun road, race course, Empress Garden and Koregaon Park. Camp culture gave importance to money-making rather than intellectual and cultural pursuits. However, it is cosmopolitan and at the level of everyday activities, this culture is helpful and welcoming.
Main Street had shops like Regal Stores and Marz-o-Rin. At one end of the street was the charming West End theatre and then Dorabjee's - the first departmental stores - (It is actually a superstore.) in Pune, a stone's throw away. After the departure of the British, the Indian army, steeped in the British discipline, dominated the camp as the head quarters of the Southern Command. So there was discipline and cleanliness. English was widely spoken and understood.
Some parts of Camp and Kirkee are simply beautiful. They instantaneously evoke the past. Sudhir Patwardhan has immortalized parts of Kirkee in his paintings.
Residents of Pune Camp were very proud of their heritage.
Alas! Time has not been kind to the cantonments.
Pune has grown by leaps and bounds while the boundaries of cantonments have remained fixed. Cantonment boards sustain themselves on grants from the central government and on their own, they have a measly Entry tax on vehicles and property tax for revenue. The central government has reduced the grants after GST became operational and there are frequent delays in getting the money. PMC, on the other hand, makes good money through property tax because its boundaries are expanding and there is new construction everywhere. New construction is restricted in cantonments.
Thus Pune camp is today a shadow of its past. The Shivaji market which was gutted has not been fully restored. All roads are full of ditches. Shops on Main Street are closing down. There is double way parking everywhere. Residents have fanned out to Fatima Nagar, Wanowrie, Kondhwa, Hadapsar and Yerawada. Footpaths have been encroached upon and cantonment board people ignore complaints of residents.